Arrivederci Roma

Early Thursday morning, Ida and JoAnn drove me to the railway station in Roseta. Had I known that I could have taken a bus and been in Rome in less than 2 hours, I wouldn't have opted for the 4.5 hour train ride. On the other hand, you see a lot less when traveling on super-highways as opposed to meandering through the countryside and stopping in a lot of little towns along the way.

As I was dragging my luggage and a long, bulky, heavy box (impulse buy!) down the inevitable stairs into the station, three young women came up behind me and took the luggage and box for me into the station. They then found what track I was supposed to be on and took me and my luggage to the platform. One of the girls spoke excellent English and told me they were going to Pescara which was where I would be changing trains. They stayed with me and took my stuff off the train into the station, found which platform I needed to be on and then even though they weren't going any further, they insisted on bringing me and my baggage to the platform for my train to Rome. I was so very grateful for their help.

The train to Rome was 30 minutes late but the scenery, once we were underway, was spectacular. There are a lot of mountains and it was interesting to see towns off in the distance on the side of a mountain and maybe a kilometre from the town would be 2 or 3 large windmills catching the downdrafts from higher mountains in the vicinity providing the town with its electrical energy. At least the Italians don't install these things in someone's back yard like we do here.

One minute the train would be drifting through a plain and the next minute you're holding your breath as you traverse a tressle with nothing below it for 100's of feet. There was one curve that was so tight, the train had to slow down to an absolute crawl. The trip may not have been speedy but it was most enjoyable.

After arriving at the station in Rome, I hailed a cab to a hotel right near the airport. The driver wasn't very familiar with hotels in the airport area so I told him to stop at the first one we saw. I didn't care which hotel it would be. I just wanted one with shuttle service to the airport as my flight the next day was around noon and I didn't want any hassles getting to the airport on time. The hotel I ended up at was the Hilton. It's very large, impersonal and over-priced. I wanted to catch up on my blog so I inquired about WiFi service - 22Eu for 24hrs. That's a lot of money for a visitor like me, but I guess most of their business is corporate so they charge as much as they can.

The next day, after breakfast, I boarded the shuttle to the airport and settled in to wait for my flight. Pearson has free WiFi for travellers, not so at Fumicino in Rome. You want to work on your computer while you wait - you have to pay. I read instead.

The flight was 9.5 hours long but smooth and on time.

And so ended my journey and with this I end my blog. I am so glad I did this. I had an amazing time even when things didn't go as well as one would hope. Thanks for taking this journey with me.

Love, Marlene

Giorno de Mercato

Wednesday is market day in Montorio but it is like no market I have ever seen. The whole downtown core of this town is open only to pedestrian traffic as this market is spread out over several blocks. You can buy virtually anything from small appliances to fresh fish. There are stalls for clothes, shoes, underwear, hardware, electronics, butchers, bakers and although I didn't see one, I'm sure that somewhere is the candlestick maker! I saw rugs, draperies, luggage and linens. You can buy gelato, spit roasted (on the spot) chicken and porchetta (whole roast pig) on a bun to munch on while you shop. It's a mobile mall and a lot more fun.

We spent about an hour there and then stopped at a supermarket on the way back. You still need go there to get things like toothpaste, laundry detergent etc. While the others picked up their necessities, I browsed the booze aisle. I bought 3 bottles of wine and a bottle of Limoncello for under 10Eu in total. I saw a 26oz bottle of Smirnoff Vodka for 7 Eu. We are so getting ripped off!

We headed back to Ida's for a late lunch and a quiet afternoon. I sat outside a fair bit trying to burn the images into my brain as this was my last day in Leognano. Time to start packing - Drat!

Leognano e Montepegano

Every morning when I woke up I would go outside and look at the view from Ida's porch. There is a large farm on the side of the mountain in the distance with olive trees and a vineyard cascading down the slope - so enchanting. No matter the time of day, there was always a little breeze carrying with it the essence of wildflowers that grow everywhere here.

Directly across the street is a smaller hill atop which sits this centuries-old church. The back wall rises up about 100 feet and literally towers over the house. On the front side, one of the bells toppled off during an after-shock crushing the car parked below. You can't go in the church now as it has been declared unsafe. The front part of the church faces further up the hill into the old part of the town and there are a few buildings in that section which have had their walls braced from the outside until the structures can be repaired and rendered habitable again.

Sunday evening, the day I arrived, Ida and a group of people from the town went to their church in Montorio. They have Sunday services in the early evening as their pastor drives in from his church in Rome to lead this tiny but very committed congregation in their weekly worship. I was very kindly invited to join them but declined as I was wiped out from traveling and opted to spend the time sitting outside on the porch just absorbing Leognano. At one point, the garden bench I was sitting on seemed to be floating. It was a very unusual sensation, leading me to believe that I was experiencing a very gentle after-shock or my total contentment in this environment had allowed me to levitate just slightly!

One of the things I love about Italy is the way they have managed to incorporate modern life with old traditions and/or necessities. Below is a picture of the town laundry. Ida told me that some people use it on a regular basis because they don't have room for a washer. In fact, she still uses it on occasion for items that are too large to fit in hers.

Monday morning, we had a leisurely breakfast of yogurt, fruit, croissant and naturally, espresso. You can actually drink the tap water here! I haven't tasted water this good since I was a kid. It's mountain spring water that is sweet and totally devoid of any chemical after-taste.

JoAnn, Ida's daughter and her two girls came by with a packed picnic lunch, beach umbrellas and chairs. We all piled into the car and headed to their favourite beach on the Adriatic. It only took us about 20 minutes to get there. The sun was hot, the sand warm and the company delightful. We sat and talked for a while, the girls went swimming and we were visited by the inevitable beach vendors. The fellow who stopped by our little spot of heaven was from Senegal. He's been in Italy about 5 years and makes his living trolling the beaches with his carrying case of pseudo-designer sun glasses, wallets etc. We weren't interested in buying anything but that was OK. He was quite content to sit a spell and just chat.

After Samba left (swear to God, that's his name), I rolled up my pant legs, abandoned my sandals and strolled the water's edge. It was glorious!

After a few hours, we trotted all the stuff back to the car and drove 5 minutes up another mountain to a town called Montepegano. The family has a townhouse there. It's small but very comfortable and welcoming. We had our lunch of ricotta/spinach pockets, deep fried potato cakes, lasagna and a nice cold rice salad washed down with a delightful fruit punch. Since my hostesses shooed me out of the kitchen, I walked the few steps to the town square and took a couple of pictures from the piazza.

After we returned to Leognano, neighbours started arriving at Ida's. They come for advice, a shoulder to cry on or in one case, help with his English homework. It's heartwarming and this sense of community is something that we, in North America, have lost. And that is a crying shame. These people are warm and welcoming. I became a new friend and neighbour to everyone I met. How absolutely wonderful is that!

On Tuesday, we drove into Teramo, a nearby town that boasts a shopping mall. It was very empty. It was explained to me that malls are cropping up all over the place but that they don't do well as people still prefer to shop in their neighbourhoods where shopping is a social enterprise. I like that. Perhaps we would be better off as a society if we could recapture our sense of community.

In Leognano, being so small, the vendors come to the town. The bread truck comes twice a week, also the butcher and the fruits and veggie guy. The ice-cream truck rolls through town every evening. Anything else you might need, you will find at the market on Wednesdays. But that's tomorrow's installment.

Ciao for now!

Venezia a Roseta

Wanting to make sure that I didn't have to hoof it to the Train station I got up early Sunday morning and decided to have a bath before venturing down to the breakfast room. Now, the tub was equipped with a hand held shower head suspended from a hanger about 6 feet up. There was no water spout so you have to use the shower head with which to fill the tub. Anyway, I started the water running and since the shower head was quite heavy, I laid it down in the tub and went about packing my suitcase.

You know that moment in time, when you become aware that the sound you were hearing changes? Ayuh, I rushed to the bathroom door to see the shower head on its back, facing out of the tub of course, happily spraying the walls, the floor, the toilet, out the door soaking the carpet... I used every single towel and the bathmat to soak up the water - tile floor - really didn't need to go slip slidin' away!

I finally got things under control - had my bath - had to drip dry of course and went down for Brekkie, got my bags and checked out by 8:30. My first train was at 10:43 so I knew that no matter what, I had plenty of time. Lo and Behold! The boat was where it was supposed to be. The ticket lady actually sold me a ticket. I boarded the boat and settled in for a leisurely 40 minute cruise along the Grand Canal all the way to the Station.

Below is a view from the boat.


These boats operate like buses do on city streets. There are bus-boat stops all along the Grand Canal. They are sheltered floating platforms. The boat pulls alongside and an attendant ropes them together and ... everybody getting off the boat, gets off and everybody getting on the boat, gets on the boat. The tether is released and the boat cruises to the next stop. It's all very Venetian!

I was about 1.5 hours early for my train so I sat outside under a tree enjoying the people and the boats. My train to Bologna was right on time and the trip totally uneventful. In Bologna, I had to change trains for San Benedetto. This was a regional train not the EuroStar. Think Via Rail - it was on time, clean, a little run down and a little less comfortable. When I realized that it wasn't going to be EuroStar, I figured there would not be a dining car. It was around lunch time and I was getting hungry and a little thirsty but I didn't have time to scope out the station for a restaurant. All the Italian train stations I've seen have drink and food machines on the platform. Not wanting to chance food poisoning, I ignored the packaged sandwiches and settled for a coke and a couple of bags of chips which I figured would tide me over until I got to Ida's.

The train was again on time. I found a spot for my suitcase and settled in with my pseudo-lunch.

You know how a carbonated drink sometimes gets a tad jiggled when dropped in a vending machine? Luckily the spray didn't get any of my seatmates, but my lap was soaked!

I arrived in San Benedetto and had about 15 minutes before my train to Roseta. By now, we are getting a little further into the boonies - no more announcements in English. In order to know on which platform you need to be you have to hump your luggage downstairs, walk under the tracks and come up into the station - find the departure list which will tell you on which track to expect your train. Then you hump your luggage down the stairs to the stairwell leading up to your track. I will never pack a heavy suitcase again! Oh, for those of you who are contemplating a purchase of luggage, make sure it also has a handle on the side - much easier to pick it up that way - mine doesn't have one.

Finally, about 20 minutes behind schedule, this dilapidated go-train look alike pulls into the station. Once we were underway, it was fine. I arrived in Roseta to see Ida waiting for me. Two of her friends had come along to pick me up and we drove the 35 minutes to Leognano and Ida's home.

The picture below is the road leading up to Ida's place. The town is situated on the side of a mountain like most towns in Italy. The slope is really a lot steeper than it looks in the picture.

Below is Ida's house - red brick. It's small, but very comfortable. She has everything she needs.

I was tired after all the travel that day. So while Ida went to church in Montorio, I sat on the porch and absorbed the surrounding beauty. More next time.

Ciao for now!

Domani, arrivederci a Venezia

I had a lot of trouble today downloading photos and answering e-mail. If you didn't hear from me, it's because it didn't fly through cyberspace as it was supposed to. I had a few other pictures of San Marco that I wanted to share with you but Blogger just wouldn't co-operate.

The picture above was taken in Piazza San Marco. The quartet that is playing under the canopy is just one of 5-6 around the square. As you walk through you might hear Mozart from one group and as their sound fades, the music, maybe DeBussey, from the next group starts to envelop you. Each group plays in front of a restaurant and there are many tables and chairs set up for people to sit down, enjoy the music and have a libation and/or nosh.

I was out early enough this morning to witness boats coming in with deliveries - dozens of them. And I started to wonder what kind of organization it took to continuously stock all the hotels and restaurants not to mention just your average Venetian store. From what I understand, there are approximately 50,000 full-time residents and about 3-4 million annual visitors ... and that's just food. You have no idea how many shops are here, selling their little hearts out to almost every one of those 3-4 million visitors. I am in awe at the thought.


Above is the Rialto Bridge - the largest one in Venice - 30-40 steps up and 30-40 steps down. It's about a 4 minute walk from Piazza San Marco (assuming you're not dragging a flippin' suitcase behind you!). By the way, my advice to anyone intending to visit, unless you have your own personal assistant or can afford a bell-hop, leave the heavy luggage at the airport or rail station and pack just what you need in a back-pack. I saw dozens of people today huffing and puffing their way to their hotel dragging stuff they mostly won't need which was me on Friday!

Above is a garden I found today just a little ways beyond Piazza San Marco and is part of the Doge's Palace. It's lush and beautifully kept but not as rigidly planned as some public gardens seem to be. This place is welcoming and very tranquil. I was very comfortable here enjoying the quiet and the awesome fragrance from some of the vegetation.

This is one of the gazzillion canals that meander through Venice. There are a lot more gondolas here than I thought.

This morning as I wandered through the maze that is Venice I happened upon a shop that sold unique and sometimes, antique books. I was contemplating purchasing one of them but decided that it was a little on the expensive side. So, I kept wandering, wandering and thinking about that book. Eventually, I made my way back to the hotel where I stopped in to take a little rest, read a bit and re-energize. Anyway, I decided that if I could find the store again I would buy the book. Unfortunately, I didn't have a clue where it was. So I decided to wander again. I figured that if I were meant to find it I would. Silly me! I did, however, find the street on which all the really big-name designer stores are. Dolce Gabanna, Louis Vuitton, Ferragamo, Prada, Gucci, Armani and a bunch of others I can't think of right now. The purse I liked was only 1,200 Eu. I wish I could have found the book-store.

I have so much more to tell you all, but I'll save it for later. Tomorrow I'm off to visit Ida and hopefully dip my toe in the Adriatic. I don't know what kind of WiFi service they'll have in that area so if you don't hear from me it's because I haven't been able to get on-line. In the meantime you all take care of yourselves. I love you.

Ciao for now.

Buona Sera da Venezia

The train trip from Florence was relaxing and uneventful. The Eurostar is a wonderful train. It's comfortable, well run and even has a dining car. How civilized can you get! Not to mention that it is very smooth running even at high speed. Via Rail should come to Europe to get a clue! The train left on time and arrived on time in Venice.

Much to my amazement on exiting the train station, I found I was a mere 50 yards from the Grand Canal and a water taxi or ferry to whisk me away to my little hotel near the Piazza San Marco. In the picture below, the train station is on the left and the Grand Canal on the right. I did not know that the train actually came into the old Venice area. I thought we would be deposited is the middle of the New Venice which is on the Mainland and I would have to get a four-wheel taxi to take me to the water taxi. This was way more cool!

Sort of ... well, it was raining as you can tell by the people with umbrella's that actually open and stay open ... they obviously didn't buy theirs at What-a-Gyp Mart. Luckily it was only a drizzle and I figured a few minutes waiting to get my ticket for the boat wouldn't kill me. So I waited in line ... and I waited .... and I waited - finally the line started moving again and it was finally my turn. I asked for my ticket to go to San Marco and was told I should be in the other line ... about 100 yards to my left. I thanked the lovely ticket lady and proceeded to the area where the other boat was docked .... no ticket agents. There was, however, an ATM sort of thingy from which you could purchase your tickets using cash or credit. Oh happy days! It ....wasn't ....working.

Everybody else was milling around not really sure what to do and since Venice isn't that big I figured that where I needed to go wasn't all that far. Besides, according to the sign I saw at the bridge over the Grand Canal it was only a 35 minute walk from there to the Piazza San Marco. It took me over an hour. In the rain. With a useless umbrella. Lugging a %&&ing heaving suitcase and carry-on satchel that could carry a homicide victim without bulging and felt just as heavy. Oh, I forgot to mention the 14 bridges I had to cross ... they all have stairs ... they are arched so the %&%%ing boats can travel underneath. Oh, and if you think I was directionally confused in Rome - well, Rome has nothing on this place. I figured the only way I was going to get there without going in circles was to ask - so at every cross-roads, corner or confusing sign- I asked. I finally arrived at my hotel in the wall. I've got to say, when I saw the alley (picture the width of stair hallway in our house) I was a little concerned. But I was very pleasantly surprised to find a for-real hotel with a lobby, a living room, a bar, a breakfast room, an elevator and everything.

My room is so small that this is as much of it I could capture from the door! BUT, it is again, spotless, the linens are snow-white and crisply pressed; all in all, very charming.

I took this picture while sitting on my bed. I thought the convergence of antique and modern was interesting.

So that you can see what I mean about the street my hotel is on, please check out the picture below.

As you can imagine, I'm pooped. I'm heading for bed now and with any luck will hit the cobblestone early in the AM. I can't wait to get lost again in Venice!

Ciao

Oggi - Firenze ... Domani - Venezia

Above is the entrance to the Uffizi Courtyard. Every few arches there is an arched recession with a marble statue of the many artists whose works are housed within. These days you can't just buy a ticket and wander around. You need a reservation. I got there around 9:15 and there were already about 200 people in line waiting to make a reservation. I decided that standing around for 2 hours was not what I wanted to do. So I guess I'll have to come back for this as well!

If you look at my picture from last night from the dining terrace of my hotel you can see a castle -like building in the distance. This is it. It is right behind the Uffizi and is the Palazzo Vechio. It seems that most attractions in this city need tickets and reservations. The piazza Della Signora is huge and was full of tourists waiting for their group's turn inside. I took a few pictures and moved on toward the Duomo.

Again the Piazza was wall to wall people! This structure is so huge that it is impossible to get back far enough to capture the whole thing with 1 camera shot. The doors must be 15 ft or higher and are sculpted brass. All the docoration you see is filligreed marble. It is absolutely stunning.

Across the Piazza del Duomo resides the Battistero a building in the shape of a septagon and each section has a set of bronze doors like the ones above. The artists were selected after a competition and each set of doors depicts pieces of scripture. They were made in the early 1400's and are amazing to see. Such detail - I can't even begin to describe them. An artist by the name of Lorenzo Ghiberti beat out the likes of Brunelleschi, Donatello and others to win the competition to be assigned to task of casting the North doors.

Above is the Ponte Vecchio taken from the wall just in front of the entrance to the Uffizi. I found it much easier to get around Florence than Rome. The layout of the streets is a little less maze-like. But, oddly enough, I felt more at home in Rome. The people here at the hotel are very nice and very helpful. I love it that no matter how humble your hotel might be, the linens are clean and ironed. I met a waiter today when I stopped in for lunch on my way to have a gander at the original Palazzo Pitti. He spoke to me English, he spoke to his co-worker in Italian and he spoke to the people next to me in French. I wonder why it is that we North Americans get absolutely stubborn about learning another language.

Anyway, that's all for today folks. Tomorrow I'll try to get on the right train and wend my way to Venice. Hopefully, WiFi will be available.

Ciao tutti!